Types of Groundcovers Ideal for Massachusetts Landscaping

Massachusetts presents a mix of growing conditions: cold winters, warm summers, a variety of soil types, and a landscape that ranges from coastal salt-spray exposures to inland woodlands. Choosing the right groundcovers for a specific site will reduce maintenance, prevent erosion, increase biodiversity, and give continuous seasonal interest. This article outlines reliable options for Massachusetts (general USDA zones 5-7), organized by site condition, and offers practical planting and maintenance guidance you can use on small residential lots up to larger properties.

How to choose a groundcover for your site

Selecting a groundcover starts with a careful assessment of the site rather than picking plants based on how they look in a catalog. Answer these core questions before buying:

• What is the sun exposure: full sun, part shade, or deep shade?
• How does water drain: dry, average, or poorly drained soils?
• What is the soil pH and texture: sandy, loamy, clay, acidic, alkaline?
• Is the area regularly visited by deer, dogs, or heavy foot traffic?
• Do you want natives for habitat support, or are non-natives acceptable?

Match plant characteristics (hardiness, spread rate, maintenance) to these answers. Groundcovers that tolerate local winter lows and snowpack are essential in Massachusetts, and choosing native species often improves long-term resilience and wildlife value.

Groundcovers for shady New England sites

Shady locations under mature trees or on the north side of buildings are common in Massachusetts. These groundcovers tolerate lower light and can often survive with drier soils caused by tree roots.

Best picks for shade

• Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese pachysandra): Dense evergreen mat, hardy to zone 5, prefers rich, moist, well-drained, acidic to neutral soils. Space plants 9-12 inches apart. Good for large, continuous beds, though susceptible to vole damage and leaf blight in some areas.
• Pachysandra procumbens (Allegheny spurge): A native alternative with a looser habit and coarser texture. Tolerates drier shade and offers better native-plant credentials.
• Galium odoratum (Sweet woodruff): Ideal for light to moderate shade and moist soils. Low-growing, spring flowers, and fragrant leaves. Space 6-9 inches apart.
• Ajuga reptans (Bugleweed): Fast-spreading, glossy foliage, spring flower spikes. Works in part to deep shade but can become invasive in very favorable conditions. Space 6-12 inches apart.
• Lamium maculatum (Spotted dead-nettle): Variegated cultivars add color to deep shade. Works best in part shade and in soils that are not waterlogged.
• Ferns (Polystichum acrostichoides — Christmas fern; Dryopteris marginalis — marginal wood fern): Use for a naturalistic, deer-resistant understory. Space clumps 12-24 inches depending on species.

Practical takeaway: For large shady areas under trees, use pachysandra or Allegheny spurge for continuous evergreen cover. Mix in ferns and sweet woodruff for seasonal texture and biodiversity.

Groundcovers for sunny, dry, or rocky spots

Sun-loving groundcovers withstand heat, reflected heat from walls and driveways, and often poor, shallow soils.

Best picks for sun and drought

• Sedum spp. (stonecrop): Many species and cultivars (Sedum spurium, Sedum acre, Sedum album) form mats, tolerate poor soil, and bloom for pollinators. Space 6-12 inches apart. Excellent for rock gardens and green roofs.
• Thymus serpyllum (Creeping thyme): Fragrant, flowering mat, excellent between pavers and in sunny rock gardens. Tolerant of drought once established. Space 6-12 inches apart.
• Phlox subulata (Creeping phlox): Spring carpet of flowers, evergreen to semi-evergreen foliage in Massachusetts. Prefers well-drained soils and full sun to part sun. Space 12-18 inches apart.
• Juniperus horizontalis (Creeping juniper): Evergreen, low-growing shrub-like groundcover for exposed sites and erosion control. Tolerant of poor soils and salt spray near the coast. Space 3-6 feet apart depending on cultivar spread.
• Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Kinnikinnick / bearberry): Native, evergreen, drought-tolerant, and useful in sandy or well-drained acidic soils. Great for coastal or xeric landscapes.

Practical takeaway: For sunny slopes or rockeries, prioritize sedums, creeping thyme, or creeping phlox. Use juniper or bearberry for larger erosion-control areas and coastal exposure.

Groundcovers for moist or wet soils

Low-lying yards, drainage swales, and spots near rain gardens or streams require groundcovers that tolerate poor drainage.

Best picks for moisture

• Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ (golden moneywort): Vigorous mat for moist sites; can be aggressive. Space 6-12 inches but monitor spread.
• Iris versicolor (Blue flag iris) and other moisture-tolerant perennials can function as groundcover in wet borders though they form clumps rather than mats.
• Carex spp. (native sedges): Excellent in wet, shady or sunny sites. Species like Carex pensylvanica (Pennsylvania sedge) create fine-textured lawns under trees, and other species tolerate standing water.
• Cornus canadensis (Bunchberry): A low native groundcover for moist acidic woods; offers spring flowers and fall color.

Practical takeaway: Use sedges and native wetland perennials in swales and rain gardens for stormwater function and wildlife value. Avoid species that rot in saturated soils.

Native versus non-native: ecological and management factors

Native groundcovers support local pollinators, birds, and soil organisms better than most non-native options. They generally adapt to local soils and climates and are less likely to become invasive. Examples of strong native choices for Massachusetts include:

• Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
• Creeping phlox (some native cultivars of Phlox subulata)
• Sweet woodruff (native to parts of the Northeast)
• Carex spp. (many native sedges)
• Fragaria virginiana (wild strawberry)

Non-native groundcovers can be valuable for certain functions (e.g., evergreen continuity from pachysandra) but evaluate invasiveness risk. Vinca minor, for example, is attractive and effective at forming a glossy mat but has documented invasive behavior in some New England woodlands; use with caution and avoid planting adjacent to natural areas.

Practical planting and maintenance guidance

Good site preparation and ongoing care determine success more than plant selection alone. Follow these steps:

1. Prepare the bed: Remove weeds and turf. For heavy weed banks, consider solarizing for 6-8 weeks or using a nonpersistent, targeted herbicide sparingly.
2. Amend soil as needed: For most groundcovers a 2-3 inch layer of compost incorporated into the top 6-8 inches improves establishment. For succulents and rock garden plants, keep soil lean and well-drained.
3. Spacing: Use tighter spacing for fast coverage (6-12 inches for sedums, thyme, and ajuga; 9-12 inches for pachysandra; 12-18 inches for phlox). Calculate plant numbers by expected mature spread.
4. Mulch and weed suppression: Apply a thin 1-2 inch mulch layer (coarse) for newly planted beds to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but avoid burying crowns of plants like thyme or phlox.
5. Watering: Water deeply at planting and on a regular schedule until plants are established (generally the first season). After establishment, many groundcovers need only supplemental irrigation in prolonged drought.
6. Fertilization: Most groundcovers do well with minimal fertilization. Use a slow-release balanced fertilizer in spring only if growth is poor, and avoid high nitrogen rates on succulents.
7. Pruning and cleanup: Trim straggly growth in spring or after flowering. Remove dead foliage to discourage pests and disease. For evergreen mats, cut back annually to renew growth if needed.
8. Pest and disease management: Monitor for vole damage under winter mulch, fungal leaf spots in airless, damp sites (reduce mulch and improve air circulation), and localized invasiveness.

Practical takeaway: Proper soil prep, appropriate spacing, and targeted maintenance in the first year will result in a low-input, attractive groundcover mat for many seasons.

Design uses and combinations

Groundcovers can function in many ways across a Massachusetts property. Consider these design strategies:

• Lawn alternative: Mix fine-textured natives (Pennsylvania sedge, creeping thyme, and wild strawberry) for a low-mow or no-mow lawn alternative in low-traffic settings.
• Under trees: Use dry-shade tolerant options like Allegheny spurge, pachysandra, and sedge beneath neighbors’ trees.
• Slopes and erosion control: Plant with staggered rows of dense-rooted shrubs (creeping juniper or bearberry) interplanted with sedums and thyme for both stability and seasonal interest.
• Pollinator corridors: Combine flowering sedums, creeping phlox, and thyme with native species to extend nectar resources through spring, summer, and fall.
• Rock gardens and terraces: Lean soil sedums, thyme, and phlox create durable carpets that thrive in heat and reflectivity.

Practical takeaway: Use mixes of species with staggered bloom times and varied textures for year-round visual interest and ecological benefit.

Final considerations

When selecting groundcovers for Massachusetts, prioritize site-specific fit, winter hardiness, and ecological impact. Native species will often provide the best long-term value for biodiversity and resilience. When using non-natives, choose noninvasive cultivars and monitor their spread. With correct planting, appropriate maintenance, and thoughtful pairing of plants to microclimates, groundcovers can reduce maintenance, control erosion, and significantly improve the health and appearance of landscapes across the state.
Plant conservatively, observe how a trial planting performs for one full season, and then expand successful patches. Over time, a well-chosen groundcover scheme will both simplify care and enhance the ecological value of your Massachusetts property.