Types of Native Grasses and Groundcovers Suited to Minnesota Outdoor Living

The Minnesota landscape spans prairies, deciduous and coniferous woodlands, wetlands, sand plains, and urban lots. Choosing native grasses and groundcovers that are adapted to those local conditions yields a low-input, resilient landscape that supports pollinators, stabilizes soil, and provides seasonal interest. This article outlines species and plant groups well suited to Minnesota climates and soils, explains where each performs best, and gives practical establishment and maintenance guidance for homeowners, landscape professionals, and restoration practitioners.

Why choose native grasses and groundcovers in Minnesota

Native species are adapted to Minnesota’s cold winters, short but intense growing seasons, and wide soil variability. They offer ecological and practical benefits that nonnatives often cannot match.

Ecological and practical benefits

Native grasses and groundcovers:

• Support native pollinators, butterflies, moths, and beneficial insects by providing nectar, pollen, and larval host plants.
• Build deep root systems that improve soil structure, increase water infiltration, and store carbon.
• Stabilize slopes and shorelines with fibrous root masses.
• Reduce long-term maintenance: native stands typically require less fertilizer, less watering once established, and fewer pesticides than nonnative turf or ornamental lawns.
• Provide winter interest with seedheads and structure for birds and other wildlife.

Regional and site considerations

Minnesota spans USDA hardiness zones roughly 3a to 5b. Microclimates, soil texture (clay, loam, sand), drainage, and shade are the main predictors of which native species will thrive. Always match species to site: prairie grasses for sunny, well-drained soils; wetland grasses and sedges for poorly drained or flood-prone sites; woodland groundcovers for understory shade.

Key native grasses for Minnesota landscapes

Below are perennial grasses and grasslike natives commonly used in Minnesota landscapes, grouped by primary site suitability and with practical notes on size, form, and uses.

Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)

Big bluestem is a dominant tallgrass prairie species with blue-green foliage that turns orange-red in fall.

• Best sites: full sun, well-drained to moderately moist soils; tolerates drought once established.
• Size: 4 to 8 feet tall in bloom.
• Uses: prairie restorations, meadow gardens, specimen plantings, buffer strips, erosion control.
• Maintenance: leave stems through winter for wildlife; cut back in early spring to 6 inches before new growth; establish from plugs or seed; spacing 2 to 3 feet for landscape plantings.

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)

A shorter, clump-forming prairie grass prized for its blue-green summer foliage and coppery fall/winter color.

• Best sites: sunny, well-drained, even dry, sandy soils.
• Size: 1.5 to 3 feet tall.
• Uses: smaller meadows, borders, rock gardens, erosion control on slopes.
• Maintenance: low; good for pollinator-friendly plantings; space 1 to 2 feet apart for rapid visual cover.

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

An adaptable warm-season grass with airy seedheads and good cold tolerance.

• Best sites: full sun, tolerates wide soil range from dry to seasonally wet.
• Size: 3 to 6 feet tall depending on cultivar.
• Uses: rain gardens (tolerates saturated soils), upland meadows, windbreaks, erosion control.
• Maintenance: clump-forming; cut back to 4 to 6 inches in early spring.

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

Fine-textured, fragrant grass that forms a graceful mound and is excellent in small gardens.

• Best sites: full sun to light shade, well-drained soils, tolerates drought.
• Size: 1 to 2 feet tall, fine arching foliage and delicate seedheads.
• Uses: informal lawns, rock gardens, mixed prairie plantings for texture contrast.
• Maintenance: slow to establish; space 1 to 2 feet.

Canada wildrye (Elymus canadensis)

A cool-season native bunchgrass that establishes quickly and is useful for quick cover.

• Best sites: full sun to light shade, tolerates clay soils and compaction.
• Size: 2 to 4 feet tall.
• Uses: restoration work, erosion control, temporary cover before warm-season prairie grasses establish.
• Maintenance: can reseed lightly; mow or cut back in spring to remove old growth.

Tufted hairgrass and bluejoint reedgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa, Calamagrostis canadensis)

These are useful for moist to wet areas and woodland edges.

• Best sites: mesic to wet soils, part shade to full sun.
• Size: 2 to 4 feet.
• Uses: wetland fringe, rain gardens, shade-tolerant meadows.
• Maintenance: tolerate seasonal flooding; cut back in late winter or early spring.

Native sedges (Carex spp.)

Sedges are grasslike plants with great diversity. Several species function as low groundcovers or lawn alternatives.

• Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica): excellent dry-shade groundcover and “sedge lawn” alternative under trees.
• Fox sedge (Carex vulpinoidea) and tussock-forming species: useful in wetter areas and rain gardens.
• Best sites: range from dry, shady uplands to wetlands depending on species.
• Uses: erosion control, shade groundcover, naturalized understory.
• Maintenance: low; many sedges do not need mowing and tolerate traffic when established.

Native groundcovers for shade, sun, and slopes

Groundcovers provide low-growing green cover, suppress weeds, and add seasonal flower displays. These native options perform well in Minnesota gardens.

Wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana)

A sun-to-part-shade groundcover with edible berries, attractive foliage, and runners that slowly form a mat.

• Best sites: well-drained to moderately moist soils, full sun to partial shade.
• Uses: sunny groundcover, between stepping stones, informal lawn alternative in small areas.
• Maintenance: low; tolerate light foot traffic; pick fruit for wildlife.

Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)

A hardy evergreen groundcover that tolerates poor, sandy soils and exposes rocky sites.

• Best sites: full sun, very well-drained sandy or rocky soils.
• Uses: erosion control on slopes, rock gardens, year-round structure in xeric sites.
• Maintenance: minimal; select appropriate cultivar size and habit for the site.

Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis), wild ginger (Asarum canadense), foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia)

Forest-adapted herbaceous groundcovers for shade and moist soils.

• Best sites: part shade to full shade, moist but well-drained woodland soils.
• Uses: woodland understory plantings, shade garden front-of-border cover.
• Maintenance: minimal after establishment; avoid heavy competition from aggressive weeds.

Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, kinnikinnick)

A low, evergreen shrub-like groundcover adapted to sandy, well-drained soils and northern climates.

• Best sites: acidic, sandy soils; full sun.
• Uses: dune stabilization, low-maintenance native groundcover on exposed slopes.
• Maintenance: minimal; prune only to maintain shape and remove dead wood.

Practical establishment and maintenance guidance

Successful outcomes depend on matching species to site, preparing soil, controlling weeds during establishment, and following species-appropriate maintenance.

Site preparation and planting timing

• Assess drainage, sunlight, soil texture, and pH before selecting plants.
• Remove aggressive nonnative weeds and turf. For larger areas, repeated mowing, solarization, or a short rotation of smothering with a biodegradable fabric can reduce weed seedbanks.
• Best planting times: fall dormant seeding (late fall after first frost) often yields high germination rates for many native grasses because seeds receive natural cold stratification. Spring planting is also possible, but watch for early-season weeds.
• Plugs vs seed: use plugs for small landscapes or to give plants a head start; use seed for large restorations. Plugs shorten the weed-susceptible window.

Planting and establishment tips

• Space plugs according to mature size: large prairie grasses 2 to 3 feet; smaller grasses and groundcovers 6 to 18 inches depending on desired speed of coverage.
• After seeding, apply a light layer of weed-free straw mulch to retain moisture and reduce erosion on slopes.
• Water newly planted plugs moderately during the first season–less water is needed than for conventional turf, but keep soil consistently moist until roots become established.
• Use a periodic mow (4 to 6 inches) in the first season to suppress annual weeds without stressing native species. For meadow seedings, a fall or late-season mow that leaves 6 inches of stubble is effective.

Long-term maintenance

• Annual tasks: a late winter or early spring cutback of old grass stems helps stimulate new growth and maintain appearance. Cut back to 4 to 6 inches for tallgrasses.
• For meadow and prairie plantings, consider small prescribed burns or mechanical removal of dead material every few years where permitted and appropriate; alternatively, roll-and-mow or hand removal can prevent woody encroachment.
• Minimal fertilization: native grasses and groundcovers usually perform best on low-fertility soils. Avoid frequent high-nitrogen fertilizer that favors aggressive weeds and nonnative grasses.
• Monitor for woody invasion and remove young trees and shrubs promptly.

Recommended mixes and planting scenarios

• Sunny residential meadow: mix of little bluestem, prairie dropseed, black-eyed susan or coneflower (as a companion forb), and a ground layer of prairie dropseed or sedge plugs for texture.
• Rain garden or wet fringe: switchgrass, bluejoint reedgrass, fox sedge, and wetland forbs like asters or joe-pye weed.
• Shade understory: Pennsylvania sedge, foamflower, wild ginger, bunchberry for a layered, native shade mat.
• Sandy slope stabilization: creeping juniper, bearberry, little bluestem and switchgrass varieties adapted to dry soils.

Final takeaways

• Choose species to match sun exposure, soil moisture, and texture first, then refine your palette for color, texture, and wildlife value.
• For small landscape projects, use plugs with 6 to 36 inch spacings depending on mature plant size; for large restorations, seed in fall for natural stratification.
• Expect lower long-term inputs: established native grasses and groundcovers reduce watering, mowing, and chemical needs compared with conventional turf.
• Work with local native plant nurseries and seed suppliers to source Minnesota-adapted ecotypes whenever possible; local provenance improves survival and maintains regional genetic integrity.

Native grasses and groundcovers provide resilient, beautiful, and ecologically valuable options for Minnesota outdoor living. With the right species in the right place, you will create landscapes that perform with less work and more benefit for people and wildlife alike.