What to Plant Along Maine Lawns for Butterfly and Pollinator Habitat

Why plant for pollinators along Maine lawns?

Maine’s landscape and climate provide both challenges and opportunities for pollinator habitat. Most of the state falls into USDA hardiness zones 3 to 6, with coastal areas milder and inland and northern zones colder. Lawns are common but typically low in biodiversity. By replacing or edging lawn space with native plants, you create corridors and feeding stops for bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths, and beneficial insects. Native plants evolved with local insects and generally provide better nectar, pollen, and host resources than many exotic ornamentals.
Creating pollinator habitat along lawns is a high-impact, low-maintenance strategy: narrow strips, island beds, or stepped edges can support migrant butterflies, resident bumble bees, native solitary bees, and specialist species such as monarchs and fritillaries. Thoughtful plant selection and maintenance give season-long blooms, host plants for caterpillars, and overwintering shelter.

Planning your lawn-edge habitat

Site assessment: sun, soil, and microclimates

Before choosing species, map the planting site:

Amount of daily sun (full sun = 6+ hours, part sun/shade = 3-6 hours, shade = less than 3).
Soil type (sandy, loam, clay) and drainage.
Moisture regime (dry, average, wet).
Exposure to wind and salt spray for coastal sites.
Lawn traffic and mowing patterns.

Most high-value pollinator plants prefer full to part sun and well-drained soils. Wet depressions or vernal pools call for species adapted to damp soils.

Size and shape: how much lawn to convert

Even small strips of planting make a difference. Consider these practical options:

Narrow edge: 2-4 feet wide along walkways or driveway edges.
Villa strip: 6-10 feet wide along the side of a lawn.
Meadow ribbon: 10-20 feet wide transition between lawn and woodland or fence line.
Pollinator island: 6-15 feet diameter for a focal habitat patch.

Trail, walkway, and lawn margins are ideal because they balance aesthetics and ecological benefit.

Design principles

Plant in drifts of at least 5-7 individuals per species to increase visibility to pollinators.
Layer heights: low (6-18 inches), mid (18-36 inches), and tall (36 inches+) to provide structure and shelter.
Successional bloom: select species that flower from early spring through late fall to provide continuous nectar.
Include host plants for caterpillars (not just nectar sources).
Avoid double-flowered cultivars that hide reproductive structures and reduce nectar/pollen access.

Which plants to choose: recommendations for Maine

Below are native species organized by function (nectar plants, host plants, shrubs and trees, grasses and sedges) and by season. Choose species suited to your light and moisture conditions.

Nectar-rich perennials (spring through fall)

Spring and early summer:
Penstemon digitalis (foxglove beardtongue) – white tubular flowers for bees and hummingbirds.
Allium spp. (native wild onions, choose low-maintenance varieties) – spring nectar for early bees.
Baptisia australis (blue false indigo) – early season nectar and sturdy clump-forming habit.
Summer:
Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot) – excellent for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower) – long bloom, strong nectar source.
Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan) – durable and attractive to many pollinators.
Liatris spicata (blazing star) – late-summer spike flowers for butterflies and bees.
Late summer to fall:
Solidago spp. (goldenrods – choose native species like Solidago rugosa) – essential fall nectar source for migrating Monarchs and late-season bees.
Aster spp. (Michaelmas daisies and native asters like Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) – vital for autumn pollinators.
Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) – tall, sturdy, great for larger pollinators and butterflies.

Host plants for butterflies and moths

Milkweeds:
Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed) – supports monarch caterpillars; vigorous; best in wider strips.
Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed) – compact, orange flowers, great for smaller spaces.
Other host species:
Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum) and Prunus spp. (native cherries) – hosts for various fritillaries and hairstreaks.
Salix spp. (willows) – host for early spring butterflies and a nectar/pollen source for early bees.
Ceanothus americanus (New Jersey tea) – host for several butterflies and valuable nectar.

Native shrubs and small trees

Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) – early spring flowers, berries for birds.
Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) – spring nectar, fruit, and good for acidic soils.
Red elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) – spring flowers for pollinators, berries for wildlife.
Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) – for wetter sites, excellent nectar source.

Grasses and sedges (structure and nesting)

Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem) – supports egg-laying and shelter.
Carex spp. (native sedges) – important for many specialist insects and for stabilizing soils.
Panicum virgatum (switchgrass) – tall structure and overwintering habitat for beneficial insects.

Planting and establishment: step-by-step

Prepare the site by removing turf or using sheet mulching to kill grass.
Amend the soil only if necessary; many natives prefer lean soils. Avoid over-fertilizing.
Plant in spring or early fall when cooler temperatures aid establishment.
Space perennials in drifts: for 1-2 foot mature spread, plant 3-5 plants per species for small beds, 7-15 for larger ribbons.
Water regularly during the first two summers: about 1 inch per week during dry spells.
Mulch 2-3 inches to suppress weeds but keep mulch away from crowns.
Stake or protect young milkweeds from rabbits and voles if necessary.
Avoid systemic insecticides and neonicotinoids on nearby lawns and ornamentals.

Maintenance and seasonal tasks

Year 1: Focus on establishment — weed control by hand/pulling and spot-mulching. Avoid heavy pruning in the first season.
Year 2: Expect fuller growth. Reduce watering and let plants form robust root systems. Divide overcrowded perennials in spring or fall.
Ongoing annual tasks:
Mow a narrow path through meadow strips in late spring if you need access; otherwise, leave unmowed patches where insects can shelter.
Leave some seed heads and hollow stems through winter for overwintering insects and seed-eating birds.
Cut back certain perennials in late spring just before new growth if stems are winter-damaged. For many natives, delay cutting until early spring.
Control invasive plants early: Japanese barberry, glossy buckthorn, and others can outcompete natives.

Design examples and plant counts

Small edge (2 x 10 feet):

5 Monarda fistulosa (spaced 2 feet)
5 Echinacea purpurea (spaced 2 feet)
5 Asclepias tuberosa (clustered)
10 mixed grasses/sedges along back

Medium strip (6 x 30 feet):

15 Echinacea purpurea
20 Rudbeckia hirta
10 Liatris spicata
10 Asclepias syriaca (in 2 clusters)
25 Goldenrod and aster interplanting for fall bloom

Large meadow ribbon (12 x 50 feet): design for succession with drifts of each species (plant numbers vary by desired density). Include 3-5 small shrubs (serviceberry, highbush blueberry) staggered for vertical structure.

Troubleshooting common problems

Sparse blooms in first year: many perennials take 1-2 seasons to mature. Continue maintenance and avoid digging up or replacing prematurely.
Deer browsing: use protective barriers or plant less-palatable species (Echinacea, Monarda are somewhat deer-resistant but not deer-proof). Consider temporary fencing.
Excess moisture: switch to wet-tolerant species like buttonbush, Joe-Pye weed, and sedges.
Too little moisture: choose drought-tolerant natives such as little bluestem, butterfly weed, and asters adapted to drier sites.

Practical takeaways and final recommendations

Choose native species adapted to Maine conditions; they offer the best nectar, pollen, and host resources.
Prioritize a mix of nectar plants and host plants. Milkweeds are essential for monarchs; asters and goldenrods are essential fall resources.
Plant in drifts and layered heights. Group at least 5-7 of the same species together so pollinators can find them.
Avoid pesticides, including systemic neonicotinoids, on your lawn and adjacent plantings.
Leave stems and seedheads through winter, and create small patches of unmown habitat to support overwintering life stages.
Start small if needed. Even a 2-foot-wide strip along a walkway can be transformed into meaningful habitat.
Track seasonal bloom and adjust species to cover gaps. Aim for continuous bloom from early spring through late fall.

By converting edge areas of a Maine lawn into strategic native plantings, you create a visible and functional habitat that supports pollinators year-round while adding seasonal color and reducing the mowing burden. Thoughtful selection, proper spacing, and low-intervention maintenance will reward you with higher biodiversity, more butterflies and bees, and a more resilient yardscape.