What To Plant Around Maryland Lawns To Boost Biodiversity

Biodiversity around lawns improves pollination, supports birds and beneficial insects, reduces stormwater runoff, and creates a more resilient landscape. For Maryland homeowners, planting the right mix of native trees, shrubs, grasses, perennials, and wetland species is the fastest way to move from a monoculture lawn to a healthy, wildlife-supporting yard. This article gives concrete plant recommendations by site condition, a seasonal planting and management plan, and practical design tips that work across Maryland’s climate zones (roughly USDA zones 6a to 8a).

Why focus on plants around the lawn?

A typical lawn is low in biodiversity and provides few ecological functions beyond aesthetics. The strips, borders, islands, and edges around a lawn are prime locations to increase native plant diversity without eliminating recreational space. Plants placed around a lawn:

• provide food and nectar for pollinators and hummingbirds
• supply fruits, seeds, and cover for songbirds and small mammals
• support native insect life cycles (important for bird diets)
• improve soil health and infiltrate stormwater
• require fewer inputs when native species are used (less fertilizer, less irrigation)

Maryland planting strategy overview

Choose plants that match micro-site conditions: sun, shade, soil moisture, and soil pH. Aim for layered plantings (trees, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, and groundcovers) to create habitat complexity. Prioritize native species because they host more native insects and provide the right food resources for local wildlife.

Site-by-site plant recommendations

Dry, sunny sites (front lawn borders, sunny edges)

• Trees and small trees: Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), Red oak (Quercus rubra) for long-term canopy and caterpillar host value
• Shrubs: Butterfly bush is non-native and can be invasive; instead choose native highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), or Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) in slightly moister spots
• Perennials and wildflowers: Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea), Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Coreopsis lanceolata, and Aster spp.
• Grasses and sedges: Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica)

Shady sites (under trees, north-facing borders)

• Trees and understory: Eastern redbud, Serviceberry, Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) in partial shade
• Shrubs and understory: Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia), Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra)
• Perennials and groundcovers: Wild ginger (Asarum canadense), Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum), Foamflower and native violets for early-season nectar
• Sedge options: Carex pensylvanica and Carex laxiculmis for dry shade replacement of turf

Moist to wet sites and rain gardens

• Grasses and emergent plants: Juncus effusus (soft rush), Carex lurida or other wetland sedges
• Perennials: Blue flag iris (Iris versicolor), Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Turtlehead (Chelone glabra), Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
• Shrubs: Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis), Highbush blueberry in slightly acid soils
• Trees: River birch (Betula nigra), Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) in wetter low spots

Meadow and low-mow pockets (replace portions of lawn)

• Mixes: Tallgrass meadow mixes dominated by switchgrass, little bluestem, goldenrods (Solidago spp.), and native asters
• For butterflies and moths: Plant several species of milkweed (Asclepias syriaca and Asclepias tuberosa) and late-blooming asters and goldenrods for fall nectar

Specific native species list (high-impact, Maryland-appropriate)

• Trees: Quercus alba (white oak), Quercus rubra (red oak), Nyssa sylvatica (black gum), Betula nigra (river birch), Cercis canadensis (redbud), Amelanchier canadensis (serviceberry)
• Shrubs: Lindera benzoin (spicebush), Vaccinium corymbosum (highbush blueberry), Ilex verticillata (winterberry holly), Clethra alnifolia (summersweet), Cephalanthus occidentalis (buttonbush)
• Perennials and wildflowers: Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly weed), Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed), Echinacea purpurea, Rudbeckia hirta, Monarda fistulosa (bee balm), Solidago spp. (goldenrod), Symphyotrichum spp. (native aster)
• Grasses and sedges: Schizachyrium scoparium, Panicum virgatum, Carex pensylvanica, Carex crinita (for moister shade)
• Wetland plants: Iris versicolor, Lobelia cardinalis, Chelone glabra, Juncus effusus
• Groundcovers: Asarum canadense (wild ginger), Tiarella cordifolia (foamflower), Phlox stolonifera (creeping phlox), Chrysogonum virginianum (green-and-gold)

Designing plantings around the lawn: practical layouts

Edge strips and native hedgerows

Create a 3-6 foot edge strip along fences, driveways, and the perimeter of the lawn to act as a pollinator corridor and visual buffer. Plant with staggered layers: lower-growing groundcovers and sedges at the lawn edge, a middle band of perennials, and a back row of shrubs. This maximizes habitat in a small footprint and keeps a neat edge against the grass.

Islands and swaths

Replace lawn islands with a mix of grasses and wildflowers. Use a 30-50% grass-to-forb mix for a natural look that still reduces mowing and supports insects. Place taller plants like Joe-Pye weed and coneflowers toward the center and lower plants at the edge.

Woodland or shady understory transition

If your lawn edges into trees, establish a transition zone rather than a hard edge. Plant native shade-tolerant shrubs and ferns to create vertical complexity and provide shelter for wildlife.

Planting schedule and care tips

• Early spring (March-April): Plant bare-root trees and shrubs when the ground thaws. Seed or install plugs of cool-season perennials and sedges.
• Late spring to early summer (May-June): Plant most container-grown perennials and grasses. Mulch newly planted beds to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
• Fall (September-October): Best time to plant many trees, shrubs, and perennials because root growth continues while top growth slows. Planting in fall improves winter hardiness.
• Watering: Establishing natives need consistent watering for the first one or two seasons: roughly 1 inch of water per week unless heavy rain occurs. Once established, most natives are drought-tolerant compared to turf.
• Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of shredded hardwood mulch, keeping mulch away from trunks and crowns. Mulch reduces weed competition and protects soil life.
• Mowing and maintenance: Reduce mowing frequency and height (3.5 to 4 inches) where possible. Leave fall stems for overwintering insects and for bird seed in spring, and cut back in late winter or early spring as needed.

Pesticide and fertilizer guidance

Avoid broadcast insecticides and systemic neonicotinoids; they harm pollinators and beneficial insects. Use selective, targeted treatments only when necessary and prefer non-chemical controls (manual removal, trapping, insecticidal soaps). Most native plantings need little supplemental fertilizer; excess nitrogen favors weeds and reduces biodiversity.

Dealing with invasive plants

In Maryland, common invasive problems include Japanese honeysuckle, English ivy, multiflora rose, and Japanese stiltgrass. Remove invasives before planting natives: cut and carefully remove root masses, use targeted herbicide only if necessary, and replant with native cover quickly to prevent re-invasion.

Example planting plans (small, medium, large yards)

Small yard (front lawn accent, 100-200 sq ft)

• One small native tree (Serviceberry or Redbud) as a focal point
• Shrub band: 3-5 shrubs (spicebush, inkberry)
• Underplant with 10-15 perennials: bee balm, coneflower, blue asters
• Border with Carex pensylvanica or wild ginger

Medium yard (replace 25% of grass with a meadow or edge plantings)

• Meadow swath 300-600 sq ft with switchgrass, little bluestem, goldenrod, asters, and milkweed
• Two native trees (oak and black gum) spaced for future canopy
• Shrub matrix along property line for privacy: highbush blueberry, witch hazel, viburnum

Large yard (native woodland edge and pond)

• Woodland understory with mountain laurel, spicebush, ferns, and trillium where appropriate
• Rain garden near downspouts with Juncus, iris, and cardinal flower
• Pollinator corridors linking lawn islands to hedgerows
• Allow some dead wood and uncut stems for overwintering insects and seed for birds

Measuring success and next steps

Track progress by noting increases in pollinator visits, songbird observations, and fewer pest outbreaks. Take photos yearly and keep a simple planting log. Expand plantings gradually, aiming to convert 20-40% of turf to native plantings over 5 years for a measurable biodiversity boost.

Quick takeaways and actionable checklist

1. Prioritize native species for trees, shrubs, perennials, and grasses suited to your site conditions.
2. Create layered plantings along lawn edges: groundcovers, perennials, shrubs, and a few trees.
3. Install rain garden plants in low spots and use sedges and rushes for improved infiltration.
4. Reduce mowing, avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, and mulch appropriately.
5. Plant in fall or spring; water regularly during establishment; then expect lower inputs.

Planting around your Maryland lawn is one of the most effective actions you can take to increase biodiversity and ecosystem resilience. With a mix of native trees, shrubs, grasses, and wildflowers matched to site conditions, you will attract pollinators, support birds, and create a more beautiful and functional landscape that thrives with less maintenance over time.