What to Plant Around Minnesota Lawns to Boost Biodiversity

Minnesota’s climate — cold winters, warm summers, and a wide range of soil and moisture conditions — supports a rich palette of native plants that, when planted around lawns, can dramatically increase biodiversity. Thoughtful plant choices and simple changes to lawn management create food, shelter, and movement corridors for pollinators, birds, beneficial insects, amphibians, and small mammals. This article outlines what to plant, where to plant it, and how to manage plantings for the best ecological outcomes in Minnesota yards.

Why plant for biodiversity around lawns?

Planting native and adapted species around a lawn does more than provide color. The ecological benefits are tangible and practical:

Native plants support more native insects, which feed birds and other wildlife.
Deep-rooted native grasses and perennials improve soil structure, reduce compaction, and increase infiltration, helping control runoff and erosion.
Diverse plantings reduce maintenance (less fertilizer, less mowing, fewer inputs).
Continuous seasonal nectar and seed sources help pollinators (spring through fall) and provide winter resources for birds.
Structural diversity (groundcovers, perennials, shrubs, trees) creates multiple habitat niches.

Understanding Minnesota conditions

Minnesota spans USDA hardiness zones roughly from 3a in the northwest to 5b in the southeast. Frost dates, snow cover, wind, and drainage vary between Twin Cities urban sites, clay-heavy prairies, sandy glacial soils, and lake-edge wetlands. When selecting plants, consider:

Hardiness: choose plants hardy to your local zone (check county or city zone).
Soil moisture: classify sites as dry, mesic (moderate), or wet.
Light: categorize as full sun (6+ hours), part shade (3-6 hours), or shade (<3 hours).
Soil pH and texture: many natives tolerate a range, but some prefer acidic soils or sandy loam.

Matching species to these conditions increases establishment success and ecological value.

Native plant recommendations by microhabitat

Below are practical plant lists organized by common yard microhabitats in Minnesota. For each species, I include a common name and botanical name to avoid confusion.

Sunny, dry (prairie and upland)

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) — native warm-season grass; excellent structure and seed for birds.
Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) — tall prairie grass for large swaths or back-of-border plantings.
Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) — fine texture, fragrant seed heads.
Purple coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia or E. pallida) — long-blooming, pollinator favorite.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta or Rudbeckia fulgida) — reliable, tolerant of lean soils.
Butterfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) — bright blooms; important for butterflies.
Blazing star (Liatris spicata) — late-summer nectar source for bees and butterflies.

Sunny, mesic (lawn edges, garden borders)

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) — abundant fall blooms.
Goldenrod (Solidago spp., e.g., Solidago nemoralis, S. rigida) — often unfairly blamed for allergies; vital late-season nectar.
Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) — aromatic, attracts bees and hummingbirds.
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) — monarch host plant, good for larger patches.
Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) — cheerful, low-maintenance.

Wet or seasonally wet (rain gardens, buffers)

Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) — prefers wet soils, great for monarchs.
Blue flag iris (Iris versicolor) — striking flowers, tolerates marshy edges.
Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium maculatum) — tall, pollinator magnet for late summer.
Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) — early spring bloom in saturated soils.
Softstem bulrush (Schoenoplectus tabernaemontani) — for shoreline stabilization.

Shade and woodland edges

Wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) — spring nectar for hummingbirds.
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) — groundcover for dry shade.
Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) — lawn substitute under trees; tolerates dry shade.
Heuchera (Heuchera americana) — adaptable perennial, good foliage interest.
Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) — spring ephemeral for undisturbed woodland patches.

Native shrubs and small trees (structure, berries, nesting)

Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) — early spring flowers, summer fruit for birds.
Red-osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) — wet-tolerant, winter twig color, berries for wildlife.
Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) — fruit for birds, spring pollinator resources.
American hazelnut (Corylus americana) — nuts for small mammals and birds.
Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) — summer flowers and fruit; useful in rain gardens.

Designing plantings to maximize ecological impact

Plant selection matters, but so does layout and scale. Key design principles:

Create continuous corridors or stepping-stone patches rather than tiny isolated pockets. Aim for groups at least 10 feet across; larger swaths (50+ feet) are even better for pollinators.
Provide layered structure: include groundcovers, low perennials, mid-height forbs, tall grasses, and shrubs/trees.
Plant in drifts or clusters rather than evenly spaced single specimens — clusters provide stronger visual and ecological impact.
Include host plants for butterflies (milkweeds, violets, parsley family plants for swallowtails) as well as diverse nectar sources spanning spring to late fall.
Leave some seedheads and stems through winter; they feed birds and provide shelter for overwintering insects.

Practical planting and establishment steps

Assess and map microhabitats: sun, shade, wet, dry, soil type.
Remove turf where you want new plantings: options include sod lift, sheet mulching, or targeted herbicide-free removal.
Choose plugs for faster cover in small areas or seed mixes for large restorations. Spring planting of plugs and fall sowing of many prairie and wildflower seeds generally work well in Minnesota.
Prepare soil minimally for native prairie mixes — many prairie species establish better in lower-nutrient soils. Remove aggressive weeds and settle soil firm but not compacted.
Water regularly during the first one to two growing seasons to establish roots, then taper off as natives acclimate.
Manage weeds aggressively in year one and two with targeted hand-weeding, shallow cultivation, or spot herbicide in extreme cases.
Annual maintenance: mow or cut prairie forbs to 6 to 12 inches in early spring (or late winter) to clear thatch and encourage robust growth. For pollinator gardens, consider staggered trimming so blooms remain through seasons.

Maintenance tips that help biodiversity

Reduce or eliminate insecticide use, especially systemic neonicotinoids that harm pollinators.
Limit fertilizer use; many natives prefer lean soils and excess nitrogen favors aggressive weeds.
Use organic mulch sparingly in prairie plantings; it can smother small seedlings. Use a thin mulch layer in shrub borders or newly planted shady areas.
Time mowing or cutting for wildlife: avoid mowing during peak nesting seasons (late spring to mid-summer) and retain some seedheads into winter.
Monitor for invasive species (buckthorn, garlic mustard, reed canary grass) and remove promptly.

Seasonal calendar and timing (Minnesota-focused)

Late summer to fall (Aug-Nov): best time to sow many native prairie and wildflower seeds directly. Cold stratification over winter benefits germination.
Early spring (April-May): plant bare-root shrubs and trees, and put in plugs for perennials and grasses as soon as soil is workable.
First two years: prioritize weed control and supplemental watering. Native plantings can take 2-3 years to look established.
Late winter/early spring: cut back prairie and perennial stems if you want tidier appearance; leave some patches for overwintering wildlife.

Practical takeaways

Start with a site assessment (sun, soil, moisture) and plant accordingly.
Prioritize native species: milkweeds for monarchs, asters and goldenrods for late-season nectar, native grasses for structure and overwinter habitat.
Create swaths and corridors, not just small islands. Aim for diverse plantings that provide resources all year.
Use plugs for quick results in small gardens; seed for larger restorations with fall sowing.
Minimize pesticides and fertilizers; manage invasives early and frequently.
Leave some stems and seedheads through winter and mow on a cycle that supports wildlife.

Final considerations

Planting around your Minnesota lawn is a practical, rewarding way to boost biodiversity while reducing long-term maintenance. Even modest changes — a native shrub border, a 100-square-foot pollinator patch, or a shady sedge lawn under a tree — produce outsized benefits for insects, birds, soil, and water. Local extension offices, native plant societies, and native plant nurseries can advise on cultivar selection and availability for your area and microclimate. With thoughtful species choice, placement, and adaptive maintenance, Minnesota yards can become robust small-scale ecosystems that support wildlife year-round.