What To Plant Around Ohio Shrubs for Year-Round Interest

Why companion planting matters in Ohio landscapes

Planting around shrubs is not just about filling space. Thoughtful underplanting and edging create layered structure, reduce weeds, conserve soil moisture, and extend seasonal interest from early spring bulbs through winter berries and bark. In Ohio, where climates span roughly USDA zones 5a to 6b, a design that balances spring ephemerals, summer perennials, fall color, and winter structure will keep shrub beds attractive all year.
Successful companion planting begins with matching plants to the local microclimate: sun exposure, soil moisture and type, and deer pressure. Choose plants with complementary heights and bloom times, and plan for maintenance tasks like division, deadheading, and spring cutback. Below are practical plant choices and design patterns for common Ohio conditions, plus concrete planting and maintenance tips.

Basic design principles for year-round interest

• Start with a framework of shrubs and evergreens for winter shape and structure.
• Layer vertically: groundcover at the edge, low perennials and bulbs in front, medium perennials in the middle, tall perennials or grasses in back.
• Stagger bloom times so color and pollinator resources return in spring, summer, and fall.
• Include plants for winter interest: bark color, persistent berries, seedheads, and low-maintenance evergreens.
• Choose a mix of native plants for wildlife benefits and non-natives where aesthetics or specific traits are needed.

Plant lists by exposure and soil conditions

Sunny sites (6+ hours direct sun)

• Spring bulbs: daffodils (Narcissus), alliums, grape hyacinth (Muscari), early tulips.
• Low edging and groundcover: stonecrop (Sedum album or Sedum spurium), creeping thyme, thrift (Armeria maritima), sedge if you want grassy texture.
• Low to mid perennials: catmint (Nepeta), lavender (Lavandula), coreopsis, gaura, salvia, nepeta, geraniums (Cranesbill), daylilies.
• Tall summer/fall interest: coneflower (Echinacea), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), asters, ornamental grasses such as switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides).
• Evergreens and structural shrubs for winter: dwarf arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis varieties), boxwood (use disease-resistant varieties), holly (Ilex hybrids), yew where soil is well-drained.

Part shade to shade (2 to 6 hours sun)

• Spring bulbs: crocus, early daffodils, scilla, alliums that tolerate shade.
• Groundcovers: vinca minor (periwinkle), hosta varieties for shade, lamium, ajuga, pachysandra (beware invasive potential), geranium macrorrhizum.
• Mid-layer perennials: hostas, heuchera (coral bells), astilbe, brunnera, pulmonaria, Solomon’s seal, foamflower.
• Tall shade accents: hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla or paniculata depending on light), rhododendron or azalea for acid soils, oakleaf hydrangea for multi-season interest.
• Winter interest: evergreen hollies adapted to shade, hemlocks or compact yews for deep shade, ornamental grasses limited to brighter pockets.

Wet soils and rain gardens

• Shrubs: winterberry (Ilex verticillata), red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) with bright stems, buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis).
• Underplant and edging: swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), blue flag iris (Iris versicolor), marsh marigold (Caltha palustris), cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum).
• Grasses and sedges: Carex species (sedge), switchgrass tolerates moist sites when not waterlogged.

Dry or well-drained soils, drought-prone areas

• Shrubs: lilac, barberry (consider native alternatives and local regulations), Russian sage near shrub edges, viburnum species adapted to dryish soils.
• Underplant: sedum, thyme, catmint, gaura, lavender, yarrow, and ornamental grasses that handle drought such as little bluestem.

Plants that provide winter structure and interest

• Winterberry (Ilex verticillata): produces bright red berries on bare stems; plant male pollinator nearby.
• Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Cornus alba: colorful winter stems in red or yellow.
• Birch and stewartia: attractive bark and winter silhouette; good as specimen accents behind shrubs.
• Ornamental grasses: leave seedheads through winter for visual interest and food for birds.
• Perennials with persistent seedheads: Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’. Seedheads catch frost and look sculptural.
• Evergreens: dwarf hollies, yews, and small conifers provide a year-round green backdrop.

Design examples: practical planting combos

Sunny shrub bed (example)

• Back row: Viburnum nudum or Hydrangea paniculata for summer flowers and fall color.
• Middle row: 2-3 clumps of Echinacea and Rudbeckia planted in groups of three for bold summer color.
• Front row: Nepeta and low sedum, with daffodils and alliums planted in drifts among the perennials for spring flash.
• Edge: creeping thyme or sedum as a defined border that tolerates light foot traffic.
• Winter: add a single columnar arborvitae or holly at the corner for structure.

Part shade shrub bed (example)

• Back: Rhododendron or Azalea where soil is acidic.
• Mid: Hosta and Heuchera groupings with a few Astilbe for feathery plumes.
• Front: Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ and spring bulbs like scilla and early daffodils.
• Accent: a clump of ferns near a damp, shaded area and a small evergreen boxwood for winter color.

Rain garden/shrub buffer (example)

• Shrub anchors: Winterberry and red osier dogwood.
• Perennial matrix: Switchgrass at back, swamp milkweed and Joe Pye weed in the middle, blue flag iris and marsh marigold at lower edges.
• Edge: native sedges and grass clumps to filter runoff and provide soil stability.

Practical planting and maintenance tips

Planting technique

• Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and no deeper than the root ball height. Backfill with native soil amended lightly with compost; avoid planting too deep.
• For bulbs, follow planting depth guidelines: most daffodils and tulips are planted about 2-3 times the bulb height deep. Plant spring bulbs before shrub leaf-out in fall.
• Space perennials in grouped drifts of odd numbers (3, 5, 7) rather than single specimens for better visual impact.
• When planting around established shrubs, do not damage major roots. Remove only as much soil as needed, or raise beds slightly with topsoil and compost rather than excavating near the shrub crown.
• Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep, keeping mulch away from direct contact with shrub trunks to prevent rot.
• Improve poor soils with organic matter but avoid heavy fertilization that encourages leggy growth.

Watering and irrigation

• New plantings need regular watering until established. Aim for deep, infrequent watering rather than shallow frequent watering.
• Drip irrigation or soaker hoses under mulch are efficient and reduce foliar disease.
• For rain gardens, grade the soil to collect runoff without creating standing water for long periods unless you are intentionally establishing a ponding rain garden with pond-tolerant species.

Seasonal maintenance

• Deadhead annual and repeat-flowering perennials to encourage extended bloom.
• Leave sturdy seedheads and ornamental grasses through winter; cut back in early spring after new growth appears.
• Divide perennials every 3 to 5 years to renew vigor and create new plants for layering elsewhere.
• Prune shrubs at the appropriate time: spring-flowering shrubs immediately after bloom; summer-flowering shrubs in late winter or early spring.
• Monitor for deer and vole damage. Install physical barriers or choose tougher species in high-pressure areas.

Deer, pests, and disease considerations

• No plant is completely deer-proof, but choices like daffodils, alliums, sedums, and many ornamental grasses are less likely to be browsed.
• Use native plants to support pollinators and build resilient plant communities.
• Avoid monoculture plantings of species susceptible to a particular disease (for example, do not plant large blocks of boxwood in sites prone to boxwood blight).
• Inspect plants regularly and remove diseased material promptly. Good air circulation and proper spacing reduce fungal issues.

Final checklist before you plant

• Confirm light levels and soil moisture across the bed through at least one season before finalizing choices.
• Select a mix of plants that bloom in different seasons and include winter interest species.
• Prepare soil by adding compost and correcting pH if growing acid-loving shrubs like rhododendron.
• Map plant spacing and arrangement on paper, using drifts and repetition for cohesion.
• Mulch after planting, set up irrigation if needed, and schedule routine maintenance tasks.
• Keep notes on what thrives and what struggles; adjust plant choices over time to tailor beds to your property.

By combining a structural shrub framework, seasonally layered perennials, thoughtful groundcovers, and a few winter-interest elements, Ohio shrub beds can remain attractive and wildlife friendly year round. With appropriate plant selection for sun, shade, and soil moisture, and with routine seasonal maintenance, you will create a low-stress, high-impact landscape that changes with the seasons but never looks neglected.