What To Plant To Attract Pollinators In Alaska Gardens
Alaska poses unique challenges and opportunities for pollinator habitat. Short, intense summers with long daylight hours favor rapid growth and abundant flowers, while long, harsh winters and permafrost limit what can be planted and how pollinators overwinter. This guide gives concrete, region-sensitive plant recommendations, seasonal strategies, and practical steps you can take in any Alaskan garden — from coastal Southeast to Interior and Arctic fringes — to attract and support bees, butterflies, hoverflies, and hummingbirds.
Why pollinators matter in Alaska
Pollinators are essential for native plant reproduction, wild berry production, and the productivity of vegetable gardens and small fruit plantings. In Alaska, native bumble bees and solitary bees are the most important insect pollinators; hummingbirds (especially Rufous and Anna’s) provide pollination for tubular flowers along the coast and in garden corridors. Supporting pollinators improves yields of blueberries, raspberries, orchard trees, and garden vegetables while increasing biodiversity.
Principles for planting in Alaska gardens
Successful pollinator gardens in Alaska follow four core principles: use appropriate, cold-hardy species; provide continuous bloom from early spring to late fall; create nesting and overwintering habitat; and avoid chemicals that harm pollinators.
Choose native and cold-hardy species whenever possible
Native plants are adapted to local soils, moisture, and seasonal rhythms and typically offer the best nectar and pollen resources for native bees and butterflies. Where natives are unavailable, choose non-invasive, cold-hardy cultivars suited to your USDA or local hardiness zone. Favor species that flower reliably within Alaska’s short growing season.
Provide bloom succession: early, mid, and late season flowers
Plan for overlapping bloom periods so pollinators always have food. Early spring bloomers (willow, alder, serviceberry) feed emerging queens and solitary bees. Midseason perennials and annuals sustain foragers through June and July. Late-blooming goldenrods and asters are critical in August and September when pollinators prepare for winter.
Create nesting and overwintering habitat
Many native bees nest in bare soil, old rodent burrows, or hollow stems. Leave patches of undisturbed, well-drained bare ground, keep some dead stems standing through winter, and provide bee hotels for cavity nesters. Woody debris, brush piles, and leaf litter support overwintering beetles, moth pupae, and solitary bees.
Avoid pesticides, especially systemic insecticides
Do not use neonicotinoid-treated plants or systemic insecticides that persist in nectar and pollen. If insect control is necessary, choose targeted methods and apply them late in the evening when bees are not active.
Top plants to attract pollinators in Alaska
Below are practical, region-aware plant recommendations organized by functional group. Choose plants that fit your local microclimate: coastal zones (milder, with salt spray), southcentral (Anchorage, Homer), interior (Fairbanks — short hot summers), and arctic/alpine (tundra-like conditions).
Trees and shrubs — early season and structural sources of pollen
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Willows (Salix spp.): catkins appear very early and are a vital food source for emerging bumblebee queens and solitary bees.
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Alders (Alnus spp.): early catkins and abundant pollen; good along riparian areas.
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Serviceberry / Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia): spring flowers feed bees and later produce berries.
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Salmonberry (Rubus pedatus / Rubus spectabilis): common in coastal and southcentral areas; early blooms for bees.
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Vaccinium spp. (blueberries, cranberries, bog blueberry): flowering in late spring to early summer; excellent for bees and later feed people and wildlife.
Perennials and native wildflowers — the backbone of pollinator forage
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Fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium): prolific and widespread; excellent nectar source for bees and butterflies.
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Lupine (Lupinus spp., including Nootka lupine where native): strong attractant for bees; use local ecotypes and avoid planting where lupine can escape and alter soils.
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Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): hardy, flat-topped blooms that attract many pollinators including syrphid flies.
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Mountain avens / Dryas (Dryas octopetala): alpine and arctic sites; early flowers that support cold-weather pollinators.
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Arnica (Arnica spp.): native in some regions, appealing to bees.
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Penstemon (Penstemon spp.): tubular forms attract bumble bees and hummingbirds where climate permits.
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Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) and late asters: vital late-season nectar and pollen to help insects build reserves for overwintering.
Annuals, fast growers, and garden attractors
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Phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifolia): fast to flower, blue-lavender blooms that are magnets for bees; good as a cover crop or flower row.
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Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus): easy to grow and great for bees and seeds for birds later.
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Borage (Borago officinalis): prolific nectar producer and very easy from seed.
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Cosmos and zinnias: bloom fast in long daylight summers and attract butterflies and bees.
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Alyssum: low-growing, continuous flowers for small bees and parasitoids.
Herbs that double as pollinator plants
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Chives and Allium species: small flowers rich in nectar; hardy and reliable.
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Mint family (mint, oregano, thyme): small clustered flowers that feed many small bees and hoverflies; plant mint in containers to control spread.
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Dill, fennel, and cilantro (flowers): umbrella-shaped umbels attract many beneficial insects and butterfly larvae (e.g., swallowtails on dill/fennel).
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Borage and lavender (where hardy): excellent nectar sources for bees.
Arctic and alpine specialists (for high-latitude and rock garden sites)
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Arctic poppy (Papaver radicatum): adapted to very cold, windy sites and provides early nectar.
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Moss campion (Silene acaulis): very low, cushion-forming, long-lived and attractive to small pollinators.
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Saxifraga species and other rock-garden natives: low-growing, heat-reflective sites can support a surprising diversity of visitors.
Detailed plant recommendations by season
Early spring (as soon as snow melts)
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Plant or protect willow and alder corridors if space allows; leave exposed ground near sunny slopes for ground-nesting bees.
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Encourage early flowering bulbs or perennials in sheltered microclimates.
Midseason (June-July)
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Fireweed, lupine, Vaccinium, penstemon, and herbs bloom abundantly. Stagger plantings of fast-flowering annuals (phacelia, borage) to fill gaps.
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Transplant perennials or sow annuals early (start indoors 4-8 weeks before last frost depending on your microclimate).
Late season (August-September)
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Goldenrod, asters, late-blooming salvias and native asters are critical; do not remove spent flowers until spring in many cases.
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Provide late-season nectar sources especially in Interior and Arctic where winter arrives abruptly.
Garden design and practical considerations
Site selection and microclimates
- Use south- or west-facing slopes and sheltered corners to extend warmth. Windbreaks of hedges or fences can reduce wind chill and help delicate flowers.
Soil and planting
- Many Alaskan soils are acidic and low in organic matter. Build soil with compost and choose natives adapted to local pH. Use raised beds or containers in areas with permafrost or poor drainage.
Water and drainage
- Ensure good drainage; many pollinator plants dislike waterlogged roots. Provide a shallow water source (rock with pebbles) for drinking and bathing.
Sourcing plants and seeds
- Buy seed from suppliers who list regional suitability or from local native plant nurseries. When buying nursery plants, confirm they are not treated with systemic insecticides.
Maintenance
- Deadhead selectively to encourage more blooms, but leave seedheads for overwintering food and shelter in late fall. Divide congested perennials in spring or fall to maintain vigor.
How to support pollinators beyond planting
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Provide nesting habitat: leave patches of bare, well-drained soil; maintain dead stems; install bee hotels for mason bees and other cavity nesters.
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Supply a water source: shallow dish with stones or a dripping feature helps bees and butterflies.
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Avoid pesticides and adopt integrated pest management: hand-pick pests, use row covers temporarily, or apply biological controls when needed.
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Monitor and learn: observe which plants attract pollinators in your yard and expand those plantings. Keep a simple log of bloom times and visitor types.
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Favor local genetics: when possible, use local seed collections or nursery-stock from your region to maintain genetic fit and resilience.
Quick planting schedule and maintenance checklist
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Late winter: order seeds; check last frost dates for your area; start long-season annuals indoors 4-8 weeks before transplant depending on local conditions.
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Early spring: protect and prune shrubs after bloom; prepare soil and add compost; install early nectar shrubs (willow/alder if available).
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Late spring/early summer: transplant seedlings after last frost; direct-sow hardy annuals and phacelia; mulch but leave patches of bare ground for nesting.
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Midseason: deadhead selectively, water during dry spells, add supplemental annuals to fill gaps.
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Late season: stop heavy pruning, leave dead stems/seedheads for overwintering wildlife, set up bee hotels, and reduce or stop pesticide use.
Final takeaways
Alaska’s pollinator-friendly gardens combine native trees and shrubs, a succession of perennials and annuals, and simple habitat features like bare ground and dead stems. Focus on early and late-blooming species to help insects through critical times, choose local ecotypes where possible, and avoid persistent insecticides. Even small yards, containers, and balcony planters can provide valuable nectar and nesting opportunities. With thoughtful plant selection and a few habitat enhancements, Alaskan gardeners can create vibrant, productive landscapes that sustain pollinators and the crops and wild foods that depend on them.