What To Plant To Attract Pollinators In Maine Gardens

Pollinators are the unseen workforce of our gardens and wildlands. In Maine, where long winters give way to a short but intense growing season, planning your garden to support bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths, flies, and beetles is especially important. A pollinator-friendly garden increases biodiversity, improves fruit and seed set for shrubs and crops, and creates a living tapestry of seasonal color and activity. This guide explains what to plant, when to plant it, and how to manage your site to maximize pollinator visits throughout the year in Maine.

Why pollinators matter in Maine

Maine supports a rich suite of native pollinators, including bumble bees (Bombus spp.), many solitary bees (Andrena, Osmia, Halictus), native butterflies and moths, and migratory species like hummingbirds and monarchs. Native plants and local crops depend on these insects and birds to reproduce and set fruit. Supporting pollinators strengthens local ecosystems and improves yields for home orchards, berry patches, and vegetable gardens.

Principles for designing a pollinator-friendly garden

Plant native species when possible; they are adapted to local soils and climate and often provide more nectar and pollen for native pollinators.
Provide continuous bloom from early spring through late fall so pollinators always find food.
Create habitat: bare ground, pithy stems, brush piles, and cavities for nesting bees; leave seedheads and fallen leaves for overwintering insects.
Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides, especially neonicotinoids. Use integrated pest management and treat only targeted problems.
Group plants in clumps of at least 3-5 of the same species so pollinators can find them easily.
Offer diversity in flower shape, size, color, and height to attract a wider range of pollinator types.

Best plants for Maine by season

Planning for bloom succession is the single most important tactic. Below are recommended species that grow well in Maine and the primary pollinators they attract. Include native options first, then reliable non-invasive ornamentals that provide forage.

Early spring (March – May)

Willow (Salix spp.) — Early catkin nectar and pollen are critical for queen bumble bees and solitary bees emerging from winter.
Red maple (Acer rubrum) and other maples — Provide nectar early in the season for bees.
Crocus and winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) — Valuable early nectar sources; plant in drifts near lawns or beds.
Willow herb/Epilobium? (note: Epilobium blooms later) — For very early nectar, focus on willows and maples.
Native fruit trees (apple, plum, cherry) — Bloom in spring and support many bees; plant old-fashioned or disease-resistant varieties and avoid pesticide sprays during bloom.

Late spring (May – June)

Penstemon digitalis (foxglove beardtongue) — Attracts bumble bees and long-tongued bees; tolerant of Maine conditions.
Phlox divaricata and Phlox paniculata — Important for butterflies and bees; fragrant, showy blooms.
Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) — Native columbine attracts hummingbirds and long-tongued bees.
Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium and Vaccinium corymbosum) — Native blueberries provide essential forage and later fruit.
Lupine (Lupinus perennis) — Host plant for Karner blue butterfly caterpillars and nectar for bumble bees.

Summer (June – August)

Bee balm / Monarda fistulosa and Monarda didyma — Excellent for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds; fragrant and long-flowering.
Coneflower / Echinacea purpurea — Attracts bumble bees, solitary bees, and butterflies; seedheads provide winter food for birds.
Black-eyed Susan / Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia fulgida — Tough, long-lasting blooms for many pollinators.
Phlox, coreopsis, and gaillardia — Summer bloomers attractive to butterflies.
Native shrubs such as serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), and viburnum — Provide both nectar and later fruits.

Late summer and fall (August – October)

Goldenrod (Solidago rugosa, Solidago gigantea) — Vital late-season nectar for bees, butterflies, and migrating monarchs; often unfairly blamed for allergies but they are a late nectar lifeline.
New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and other asters — Provide pollen and nectar in fall when resources are scarce.
Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) — Tall native that attracts butterflies and bees.
Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) — Deep purple blooms favored by larger bees and butterflies.

Milkweeds for monarchs

Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), and butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) are essential host and nectar plants for monarch butterflies. Plant at least one milkweed species in a sunny area and avoid cutting it back until after monarchs have left.

Plants by pollinator type

For native bees

Native perennials with open, bowl-shaped flowers and plentiful pollen: Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Asters, Goldenrod.
Early spring shrubs and trees: Salix (willow), Acer (maple), Amelanchier.
Hollow stems and early-spring bloomers for mason and mining bees: Penstemon, Phlox, Heuchera.

For bumble bees

Tubular and deeper flowers: Penstemon, Monarda, Echinacea, Lupine.
Large clumps of single-species plantings provide the biomass bumble bees search for.

For butterflies and caterpillars

Nectar: Buddleia (butterfly bush — choose native alternatives when possible), Phlox, Liatris, Verbena bonariensis.
Host plants: Milkweeds for monarchs; willows, cherries, and birches for many native moth and butterfly larvae.

For hummingbirds

Tubular red or orange flowers: Aquilegia canadensis (columbine), Monarda didyma (bee balm), Penstemon, Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens).

For moths and night pollinators

Fragrant, pale flowers that open in the evening: Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis), Nicotiana (tobacco plant, grown as an ornamental), and some phlox varieties.

Practical planting and maintenance tips

Choose a sunny location for most pollinator plants; many natives prefer full to part sun.
Plant in clumps of the same species and aim for at least a dozen stems where space allows. Pollinators are efficient at locating large floral displays.
Prepare soil by improving organic matter and ensuring drainage appropriate to the species. Blueberries and some wetland natives prefer acid, moist soils; many prairie-type perennials prefer well-drained, lean soils.
Mulch lightly to suppress weeds but leave some bare patches for ground-nesting bees. Do not cover all bare ground.
Water new plantings through their first season; after established, many native perennials tolerate Maine summer conditions.
Deadhead selectively: for ornamental appeal, deadhead spent blooms, but leave some seedheads in late fall for wildlife and overwintering insects.
Minimize pesticide use. If you must use an insecticide, apply it late in the evening and not during bloom to reduce harm to active pollinators. Avoid systemic insecticides when possible.
Time pruning: delay major pruning of shrubs until late winter or early spring after pollinators have used stems for nesting, and after flowering for spring-blooming shrubs.

Creating habitat: nesting, water, and shelter

Provide bare patches of soil and south-facing slopes for ground-nesting bees. Leave these areas undisturbed.
Keep some stems with pith and hollow stems (like raspberry canes) uncut through winter for cavity-nesting bees.
Install or make simple bee hotels using bundled hollow reeds or drilled wood blocks, but place them on a sunny, sheltered wall and maintain them to prevent disease buildup.
Leave small brush piles and dead wood on the property or create log piles set on their sides for nesting beetles and solitary bees.
Offer a clean water source: a shallow dish with stones or a birdbath with flat stones for landing. Keep water fresh to prevent mosquito breeding.

Avoid common mistakes

Mistaking early-blooming, highly fragrant non-natives for better pollinator plants. Native species are usually the best long-term choice.
Planting single specimens scattered across the garden. Solitary plants are less visible and less attractive than grouped plantings.
Using broad-spectrum insecticides during bloom. This kills beneficial pollinators as well as pests.
Removing all debris in fall. Many insects overwinter in stems, leaf litter, and log piles. Leave some habitat.

Sample planting plan for a 10 x 20 foot pollinator bed in Maine

Back row (sunny edge): Plant 5 Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) spaced 3 feet apart for late-summer nectar.
Mid row: Plant 7 Echinacea purpurea (coneflower) and 7 Rudbeckia fulgida in alternating groups for mid-summer color.
Front row: Plant 12 Penstemon digitalis and 12 Monarda fistulosa in two wide drifts for early to mid-summer nectar and hummingbird visits.
Edges and pockets: Insert clumps of Phlox paniculata and native asters for seasonal continuity and butterflies.
Include a small patch (2-4 plants) of swamp milkweed in a moist spot and a strip of bare ground or a sunny patch of well-drained soil for nesting.

Sourcing plants and final considerations

Buy bare-root or locally propagated native plants from reputable native plant nurseries when possible. Avoid plants treated with systemic insecticides. Check for cultivars that retain native form and nectar production; some heavily hybridized cultivars are less useful to pollinators.
Creating a pollinator-friendly garden in Maine is a multiyear commitment that rewards patience. Start with a plan for seasonal succession, prioritize native species, provide nesting and water resources, and adopt pesticide-free maintenance. Over time your garden will become a lively corridor for pollinators, producing healthier plants, better fruit set, and the satisfaction of supporting the broader ecosystem where you live.