What to Plant: Trees Best Suited to Pennsylvania

Introduction

Pennsylvania spans several climate and topographic zones, from the Atlantic coastal plain in the southeast to the Allegheny Plateau and the Appalachian Mountains in the west and north. That variety means a wide palette of trees will thrive here, but it also means you need to match species to site, soil, and long-term goals. This article explains how to choose trees for Pennsylvania, recommends species by purpose and site, and gives detailed planting and maintenance guidance to maximize survival and long-term value.

Key considerations before you plant

Before choosing species, evaluate the following factors for each planting location. These considerations will help you avoid common mistakes and pick trees that become assets rather than liabilities.

Soil texture and drainage (sandy, loamy, clay; well drained vs seasonal saturation).
Soil pH (Pennsylvania soils range from acidic to neutral; some species prefer slightly acidic).
Hardiness zone (most of Pennsylvania is USDA zones 5b to 7a; higher elevations and the Poconos can be colder).
Available root and crown space (underground utilities, proximity to buildings and sidewalks).
Exposure (full sun, partial shade, wind exposure).
Long-term goals (shade, fall color, wildlife, privacy, street tree, erosion control).
Pest and disease history (emerald ash borer, beech bark disease, oak problems, gypsy moth outbreaks).

How to choose between native and nonnative trees

Native trees are usually the best first choice in Pennsylvania. They are adapted to local soils and climate, support native wildlife and pollinators, and generally require fewer inputs once established. Nonnative trees can be acceptable where specific performance is needed (extreme urban tolerance, unusual soil conditions), but avoid species known to be invasive or that reduce local biodiversity.

Best trees by purpose

Shade trees (large, long-lived)

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum) – Classic for shade and fall color; prefers rich, moist, well drained soils; slow to medium growth; sensitive to salt and urban pollution.
Northern red oak (Quercus rubra) – Tolerant of a range of soils, excellent canopy tree, attracts wildlife; medium growth rate.
Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) – Fast-growing shade tree with spectacular spring flowers and rapid canopy formation on good soils.

Street and urban-tolerant trees

Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis) – Good for paved strips and lawns; tolerant of heat, compacted soils, and salt; choose thornless cultivars.
Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) – Very urban-tolerant and pest-resistant; male cultivars are recommended to avoid messy fruit.
Northern red oak and London plane tree (Platanus x acerifolia) can also work where space allows, but plane trees are nonnative.

Small trees and ornamentals for yards

Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) – Small native tree with spring flowers, summer fruit for birds, good fall color.
Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) – Spring bloom and compact size, best in partial shade to full sun.
Dogwood (Cornus florida) – Classic understory tree; prefers well drained, slightly acidic soils and protection from hot afternoon sun.

Trees for wet or riparian sites

River birch (Betula nigra) – Thrives where soils are moist to wet, tolerates clay and periodic flooding; good for stream banks.
Green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) – Historically used for wet sites but now threatened by emerald ash borer; consider alternatives.
Swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor) – Native oak that tolerates poorly drained soils and offers good wildlife value.

Trees for dry sites, slopes, and poor soils

Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) – Drought tolerant, good on exposed hillsides; provides winter cover and wildlife food.
White oak (Quercus alba) – Once established it tolerates dry, well drained sites and provides exceptional wildlife benefits.
Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) – Very tolerant of poor soils and drought; be aware it can sucker and become invasive in some settings.

Species profiles and practical notes

Sugar maple (Acer saccharum)

Sugar maple reaches 60-80 feet and is prized for dense shade and spectacular fall color. It prefers deep, well drained loam with a slightly acidic pH and does poorly with road salt. Plant in larger lawn areas or protected residential sites. Avoid compacted urban strips.
Planting tip: mulch 2-3 inches in a donut shape away from the trunk; water deeply during dry spells in the first three years.

Northern red oak (Quercus rubra)

A cornerstone canopy tree, 60-75 feet tall, adaptable to a range of soils including heavier loams. It supports many insects that are food for birds. Oaks are long-lived; minimize root disturbance and do not grade soil up against the trunk.
Planting tip: when planting saplings, preserve as much root mass as possible. Avoid excessive fertilizer; slow, steady growth is preferable.

River birch (Betula nigra)

A medium tree 40-70 feet tall with exfoliating bark and tolerance for wet soils. It is useful for erosion control along streams. Avoid planting in extremely dry, compacted soils.
Planting tip: use on lower slopes or in rain gardens; spacing should allow for multiple-stem habit if left unmanaged.

Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus)

Fast-growing evergreen up to 50-80 feet depending on site, with soft needles and good winter screening ability. Prefers well drained, slightly acidic soils and tolerates partial shade when young.
Planting tip: use as a windbreak or screen; plant groups for visual impact and wildlife corridors.

Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis)

A small understory tree 15-25 feet tall offering multi-season interest: white spring flowers, edible berries, and orange-red fall color. Prefers well drained, slightly acidic to neutral soils.
Planting tip: excellent in mixed native plantings and attractive to pollinators and birds.

Black walnut (Juglans nigra) – caution

Black walnut is native and valuable for timber and wildlife, but it produces juglone which can inhibit many other garden plants. Plant black walnut only where you do not intend to grow sensitive understory species or vegetables near the tree.

Planting and establishment: step-by-step

Before any planting, prepare the site and create the best possible environment for root establishment.

Choose the right tree for the micro-site and long-term size.
Dig a hole 2-3 times as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root flare.
Inspect the root ball and find the root flare; do not plant deeper than it was in the container or nursery.
Backfill with native soil; avoid adding large quantities of peat or fertilizer at planting time.
Create a shallow, wide berm around the planting hole to hold water for the first few seasons.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch over the root zone, keeping it 2-3 inches away from the trunk.
Water deeply at planting and maintain supplemental watering during the first 2-3 years (especially in dry summers). Typical schedule: weekly deep watering in absence of significant rain, tapering as roots spread.
Stake only if necessary; remove stakes after one full growing season to allow trunk strengthening.

Maintenance and pest management

Regular care increases survival and long-term performance.

Inspect annually for structural defects and remove competing limbs or suckers.
Prune in late winter or early spring to establish strong central leader and scaffold branches; avoid heavy pruning in summer.
Monitor for common pests: emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) kills ash species; beech bark disease affects American beech; gypsy moth defoliation can stress oaks and maples. Early detection and species diversity reduce risk.
Avoid overfertilizing; excessive nitrogen can encourage weak, fast growth and make trees susceptible to windthrow and pests.
Mulch renews moisture and reduces competition but keep mulch away from trunks to prevent rot.

Planting strategy for resilience

Use these strategies to create resilient urban and rural tree populations:

Diversify species so no single pest or pathogen can decimate a site.
Favor natives for wildlife benefits and long-term adaptability.
Match tree size to space; planting a tree that will outgrow its site leads to future conflict.
Plan for succession: place longer-lived canopy species where they will not need removal for decades.

Common mistakes to avoid

Planting too deep: burying the root flare is a leading cause of decline.
Choosing the wrong species for road salt or compacted soils.
Planting monocultures, especially of species known to be vulnerable to local pests.
Overlooking root space (e.g., under sidewalks) which constrains growth and shortens life.

Conclusion: practical takeaways

Pennsylvania offers many excellent tree choices when you match species to site conditions, goals, and long-term maintenance ability. Prioritize native canopy species like sugar maple, oaks, and tulip poplar for shade and wildlife, reserve river birch and swamp white oak for wet sites, and choose tolerant species such as honeylocust or ginkgo in urban strips. Plant carefully: wide, shallow holes, correct depth, proper mulch, and regular watering in the first few years make the difference between a tree that survives and a tree that thrives. Diversify plantings to reduce pest risk and plan for the mature tree size to avoid costly future removals. With these guidelines and the species profiles above, you can design tree plantings that enhance property value, support wildlife, and endure for generations in Pennsylvania.