What To Plant Under Arizona Shade Trees
Planting under shade trees in Arizona is a common challenge: summer heat, shallow, aggressive tree roots, and wildly different climate zones across the state all influence what will survive and look good. This article gives practical, region-aware guidance and plant lists for creating attractive, low-maintenance planting areas beneath shade trees–from the low desert heat of Phoenix and Tucson to the cooler mountains around Prescott and Flagstaff.
Understand the challenges first
Planting under trees is different from planting in open beds. In Arizona those differences are magnified.
-
Tree roots compete strongly for water and nutrients, and many tree roots run near and above the soil surface.
-
Shade under trees is often uneven: deep, persistent shade near the trunk and dappled or morning shade farther out under the canopy.
-
In the low desert, reflected heat and long, hot summers stress shade plants that otherwise do well in cooler climates.
-
Soil beneath trees is often compacted and low in organic matter, and many trees create hydrophobic soil surfaces or inhibit underplanting with allelopathic chemicals.
-
Irrigation must be managed carefully: too little and understory plants fail; too much and tree roots or the tree trunk can rot.
Before choosing plants, read the site: note the type and size of shade (deep vs dappled), soil texture and drainage, slope, and which side of the tree the area is on (west side receives hot afternoon reflections). Also identify the climate zone: low desert (phoenix/tucson), transition (prescott), or high elevation (flagstaff), because many shade plants that perform in Flagstaff will not survive Phoenix summers.
Light categories and what they mean
-
Deep shade: little direct sun, mostly shadow all day; common close to large oak or ash trees.
-
Dappled shade: filtered light through leaves; sunflecks and morning sun are common.
-
Morning sun/afternoon shade: bright early sun, protected from hot afternoon rays.
-
Partial shade (in Arizona terms): at least a few hours of morning sun but protected from the worst afternoon heat.
Match plants to these categories. Low-desert deep shade is the toughest environment because plants must tolerate both heat and low light.
Soil and planting preparation
Establishing plants under trees requires smart preparation, not heavy digging near the trunk.
-
Do not dig a deep planting hole right against the tree trunk or sever major roots. Keep disturbance to a minimum within the tree dripline.
-
Loosen only the top 4 to 6 inches of soil where you will plant; mix in compost or aged organic matter to improve water retention and root growth.
-
Use raised planting berms or mounded beds outside the immediate root zone for larger or deeper-rooted plants.
-
Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch (shredded bark, composted wood chips). Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot and rodent problems.
-
Install low-flow drip irrigation or soaker lines on different zones: one for the tree, and a separate zone for underplanting. That lets you water the tree less frequently while giving the understory more regular, shallow water as needed.
Planting technique and irrigation tips
-
Planting depth: keep plants at their nursery depth; do not plant deeper than they were in the container.
-
Backfill soil: firm lightly to remove air pockets but avoid compacting too heavily.
-
Watering schedule (low desert example): first month — deep soak twice a week for deeper-rooted shrubs, shallow frequent watering (2-3 times per week) for new perennials and groundcovers; after establishment — reduce frequency and increase duration for shrubs, maintain occasional shallow watering for shallow-rooted groundcovers. Adjust for season and rainfall.
-
Use drip emitters with flow rates suited to each plant type (0.5 to 2 gallons per hour typical). Group plants with similar water needs on the same line.
-
Avoid fertilizers near the tree trunk; no heavy feeding in the immediate root zone unless soil tests show deficiency.
-
Protect shallow-rooted plantings from foot traffic and weed whips that can damage fine roots.
What to plant in the low desert (Phoenix, Tucson)
Plants listed here tolerate heat and low light or perform with modest irrigation under tree shade. Expect to water more frequently than you would in the open.
Groundcovers and low fillers:
-
Liriope muscari (lilyturf) — evergreen clumping grasslike plant; thrives in shade and tolerates heat; good border plant.
-
Dichondra repens (dichondra) — low matting groundcover for part shade with regular irrigation.
-
Vinca major or Vinca minor (periwinkle) — shade-tolerant trailing groundcover; perform with summer water.
-
Ophiopogon japonicus (mondo grass) — narrow clumping groundcover for shaded beds.
Perennials and shrubs:
-
Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii (turks cap) — bright red flowers, tolerates part shade and heat; attracts hummingbirds.
-
Justicia spicigera (Mexican honeysuckle) — orange tubular flowers; prefers part shade in low desert and regular water.
-
Salvia species (some sages like Salvia greggii) — many tolerate dappled shade and add color; choose cultivars noted for shade tolerance.
Ferns and moisture lovers (use only where microclimate supplies extra moisture, such as near a shaded wall or dripline with supplemental water):
-
Adiantum capillus-veneris (maidenhair fern) — can thrive in cool, moist shade pockets with consistent irrigation.
-
Cheilanthes species (rock ferns) — native cliff ferns that perform in rocky, shaded washes.
Bulbs and seasonal interest:
- Zephyranthes spp. (rain lilies) — small bulbs that pop up after summer rains and do well in dappled shade with seasonal moisture.
Accent plants:
-
Cycas revoluta (sago palm) — tolerates shade and heat once established; keep to well-drained soils and limited water.
-
Pelargonium (ivy and zonal geraniums) — do well in part shade with regular water and provide long flowering.
What to plant in transition and high-elevation zones (Prescott, Flagstaff)
These cooler zones allow temperate shade plants that will not tolerate extreme low-desert heat.
Groundcovers and perennials:
-
Heuchera spp. (coral bells) — excellent for dappled or deep shade; many color forms.
-
Liriope and Ophiopogon — perform well in cooler climates.
-
Ajuga reptans (bugleweed) — shade-loving groundcover for moist soils.
Ferns and woodland plants:
-
Hostas (many varieties) — perform well in Prescott; avoid low desert.
-
Ferns: Dryopteris, Athyrium, and other temperate ferns thrive in shaded, cool sites.
-
Epimedium spp. — hardy, drought-tolerant once established and great for dry shade.
Shrubs and accents:
-
Rhododendron/camellia (in appropriate microclimates and soils) — need acidic soil and adequate moisture.
-
Native manzanita and mountain mahogany species may work in dappled shade where conditions allow.
Plant lists by shade level (quick reference)
- Deep, hot low-desert shade (under large truck shade in Phoenix/Tucson):
- Liriope muscari
- Ophiopogon japonicus (with careful placement)
- Malvaviscus (turks cap) in outer canopy where soil is less root-bound
-
Maidenhair fern (only in consistently irrigated micro-sites)
-
Dappled shade/part shade:
- Vinca spp.
- Dichondra repens
- Salvia greggii and other shade-tolerant salvias
-
Lantana montevidensis (trailing lantana) in part sun/part shade with irrigation
-
Cool, mountain shade:
- Hosta spp.
- Heuchera spp.
- Temperate ferns, epimedium, pulmonaria
Practical design ideas
-
Ring planting: create a planting ring 2 to 4 feet out from the trunk, outside the trunk flare, where tree roots are less dense. Use small clumping groundcovers, bulbs, and container specimens to reduce root competition.
-
Raised beds: build a low raised bed just outside the dripline to give plants deeper soil and shelter from root competition.
-
Drift planting: use repeated groups of the same plant species under the tree for coherence and to minimize irrigation complexity.
-
Container gardens: in the most challenging spots close to the trunk, place decorative pots with shade-tolerant plants. Containers bypass root competition and can be watered independently.
Maintenance and seasonal care
-
Mulch renewal: refresh mulch annually and keep it 2 to 3 inches deep, but always pull mulch back from the trunk collar by several inches.
-
Pruning: avoid heavy pruning of the tree solely to add light–thoughtful thinning can help but should be done by a certified arborist to protect tree health.
-
Observe and adjust water: monitor plant stress–wilting, yellowing, or leaf scorch are signs to tweak water. Use a soil probe or dig a small test hole to check moisture before changing schedules.
-
Weed control: weeds compete for water and light. Remove by hand and avoid tilling which damages tree roots.
Troubleshooting common problems
-
Plants die near the trunk: usually root competition or lack of oxygen due to compacted soil. Move planting slightly farther out or use raised beds/containers.
-
Leaf scorch in supposed shade plants: often caused by reflected heat from patios or walls or hot afternoon sun. Add shade cloth temporarily, move plants, or choose more heat-tolerant species.
-
Fungus or collar rot around the tree: reduce irrigation near the trunk, pull back mulch, and avoid piling soil or organic matter against the trunk.
Quick checklist before planting
- Identify your Arizona climate zone and microclimate under the tree.
- Determine shade level (deep, dappled, morning sun).
- Test or evaluate soil–drainage and compaction.
- Plan irrigation zoning separate from the tree.
- Choose species adapted to both shade level and your zone.
- Prepare soil minimally near the trunk; consider raised beds or containers if competition is severe.
- Mulch and water carefully; monitor and adjust seasonally.
Final takeaways
Planting under Arizona shade trees is entirely possible with the right expectations and techniques. Match plants to your specific microclimate, manage root competition with raised beds or containers where necessary, provide separate irrigation for understory plantings, and choose species known to tolerate both shade and your local heat or cold patterns. With careful preparation and sensible maintenance, the space beneath your trees can become a cool, attractive, and low-maintenance part of your Arizona landscape.
Related Posts
Here are some more posts from the "Arizona: Trees" category that you may enjoy.